Section 21 is 53.1 miles long and runs from Ghost Ranch to Cuba, NM. November 1st - 5th.
Day 131-132, 0-Day in Santa Fe, NM and then back to Ghost Ranch
Halloween night was spent driving to Santa Fe, with a pit stop at an Arby’s, and going to bed. The AirBNB host that Nhandi found was the greatest, a little old man named Jim who had a greenhouse producing almost all of his food. He cooked us a dank, vegan, homegrown, breakfast that was absolutely mouth-watering. He was also full of tales from his youth, old movies, and timeless music and songs. We lounged around quite a bit the rest of this day, only leaving the house to go try out the local pizzeria which was delicious.
Almost every ingredient was grown in Jim’s greenhouse.
The next day when Jim left to get a haircut we enjoyed the hottub with amazing views of the surrounding mountains and then went to dine at Harry’s Roadside Diner which was home of some very strong margaritas. We then went back to Santa Fe proper to do some errands and food resupply before heading back up to Ghost Ranch. We got checked in, sipped on some beers as we watched a replay of the Rugby World Cup, and then went to check out the dining hall. Apparently you had to buy dining tickets at the front desk, which closed 30 minutes ago, but one of the staff said “eh, screw it, come on in and help yourself!”
Day 133, 20.1 miles to marker 2337.7
It was really hard saying goodbye again for a 30-day window. Sea Lion left before dawn and made the whole 10-hour drive back to Austin in one shot. I went to the dining hall for breakfast and pigged out on some calories before setting off NOBO, up the Mesa Trail, to go back to that scenic canyon during daylight and be able to see it in it’s true splendor…but my breakfast did not sit well and I had to hurry back to the room. I was sad but knew that sulking around the cabin wasn’t going to cheer me up so I packed up and hit the trail. The scenery was gorgeous and I totally could understand why so many movies are filmed here. I got off trail, followed a dry arroyo, crossed a little suspension bridge, went passed the abandoned visitor center, and kept trucking. I listened to a lot of music and podcasts to keep my mind busy and not drift back to how I won’t get to see Sea Lion again for a month.
Janky footbridge from the above video.
The Ghost Ranch Alt Route follows Rio Chama for a ways and there were some majestic campsites on the riverbanks. There was also a metal basket suspended over the river with a pull rope to guide you across, I wanted to take this river-crossing method so bad! It looked super fun but it was all locked up. So I continued on to connect back to he CDT and cross at Skull Bridge which was a big disappointment for having such a badass name. I filled up my water at a cow trough and then the trail began to transition from the wide open desert and back to the mountainous and tree covered landscape. I made it to camp right at nightfall and laughed at myself as I set up the tent, I had forgotten the streamlined process and made some near-rookie mistakes. However, I was confident that I made the right decision to switch from my hammock to the tent for the remainder of New Mexico, with its long long stretches of treeless, flat, desert.
Rocky cliffs or neapolitan ice cream?
I would’ve loved to ferry myself across the Rio Chama in this suspended basket! But it was locked up.
Rio Chama from Skull Bridge.
Gave me flashbacks to Section 20.
Almost to camp.
Day 134, 27.6 miles to marker 2365.3
I was even more satisfied about my switch to tenting the next morning when I had room to change and cook “inside” instead of leaning out the side of my hammock. I took another forest road alt route that skipped a big PUD (Pointless Up & Down) I took a lengthy break and researched the Guthook’s comments on the upcoming town of Cuba, NM and then blasted out some more uneventful miles. I passed a hunter on my way up to the top of San Pedro Peaks and he asked me if I had seen any elk. I had not, but then when I arrived at the top of the peaks there two big heards, one of eight elk and one of about two-dozen. HA! This victory was short lived as I was back above 10,000 feet and it was again freezing out, the few creeks were frozen solid. I threw a big rock down on one and it bounced right off. Thankfully, as I descended off of the peaks, the streams thawed out and I was able to fill up on water for dinner and camp for the evening.
I thought I was done with snow and ice!
A heard of at least two dozen elk retreating into the trees. Just a couple miles North of here I met a disgruntled hunter who had spent three days searching for elk and hadn’t seen a single one.
Day 135, 5.4 miles to Rebel’s Roost in Cuba, NM
I had an extremely lethargic morning as it was very chilly out and I knew that my Nero to town was five miles on a gentle dirt road going downhill. My Achilles was acting up again so I wanted to minimize walking on the day and let it rest. Rebel’s Roost is a pretty cool spot on the edge of town that, during peak hiker season, has home brewed beer on tap and a solar hot tub, but all of those amenities went away with the warm weather. Nothing for the last lonely SOBO. They also have a juice and coffee bar food truck set up so I hung out with them most of the day and talked to Sea Lion on the phone a few times. I also slept in a retrofitted school bus.
I wanted to stay in their new Space Camper, but they said it wasn’t ready yet.
But I got to stay in the loft of this big bus conversion equipped with a kitchenette.
The Juicy - Jitters Cafe Food Truck.