Section 17: Snow, Rain, Cold, Alt Routes, and an Abandoned Radio Tower (25 photos, 2 videos)

Section 17 is 76.3 miles long and runs from Interstate 70 to Grand Lake, CO. September 27th - 30th

Day 96, 15.7 miles to NOBO marker 1303.8 (1896.7 overall)

I had a lazy morning at the hotel, indulged at the mediocre continental breakfast, and checked out at 11. I then walked up the street to REI to pick up my new shoes and a new Mountain House meal since my old MH bag was getting funky. I grabbed my food resupply next door at City Market and then was hoping to return to the Cheeba Hut for lunch but the line was absurdly long so I settled for Qdoba. The hills surrounding Dillon were dotted with yellow aspens and it was a beautiful backdrop as I threw out my thumb to get a hitch back to the trail. I blasted up the wide and well-trodden trail, popular among day hikers, and caught Omanitus who I leapfrogged with a few times on the AT two years ago. He was also wrapping up his Triple Crown in three years and we chatted for a bit.

I reached the top of the ridge and saw some storm clouds heading my way. Crap. It eventually caught up with me as I hit Jones Pass and some light flurries filled the sky. I was enjoying the scene for a bit until booming thunder joined to party. There was an alt route from Jones Pass that dipped down to Clear Creek but I was already a good bit beyond that junction so I decided to push forward. It was a scary and intense mile before the thunder subsided as I began to descend off of the exposed ridge. However, the snow turned to rain as I dipped down in elevation and I was thoroughly soaked as the daylight diminished. I was determined to get back into tree cover to set my hammock instead of camp on the wet ground so this meant I was in for some rainy night hiking. My headlamp illuminated the falling droplets and it looked like I was in Star Wars hyperspace. The first batch of trees I found was next to some massive factory (I later learned this was Henderson molybdenum mine) down in Butler Gulch and it was noisy enough that I knew I would have trouble sleeping. So I pushed on. Eventually I found a little copse of trees that served as a perfect campsite. I made some tea and devoured some food to try to warm myself up before going to sleep.

Day 97, 16.6 miles to NOBO marker 1326.3 (1919.2 overall)

It was still cold and wet in the morning but there were tons of dead and dry lower branches on my trees so I made a morning fire to warm up and dry out my hiking outfit. I got into a rhythm of gathering firewood, eating a few bites, and holding stuff over the fire. I held my shirt a little too close and scorched a hole in the chest. This article of clothing was barely limping along and would barely last me to the end of the CDT. I was not packed up and hiking until 10am, my latest start ever. I shot back up in elevation, out of tree cover, and there was a dusting of snow that covered the landscape. It was gorgeous. The trail dropped down to Berthound Pass which is another super popular trailhead for day hikers. I felt like quite the vagabond filtering water right out of a storm drain but there were no sinks or water fountains around. I overtook at least two dozen day hikers on the way up to the top of Mount Flora which always makes you feel like a machine. The official route dropped down 3,000 feet to some water sources and then climbed back up James Peak totaling 10.5 miles while this alt route was 4.8 miles as it bounced along a ridge from Mount Flora, to Mount Eva, Parry Peak, and Mount Bancroft before reconnecting to the CDT on James Peak. In addition to the alt route staying on the true Continental Divide, there was also the remains of an old radio station that fell over so the choice was clear.

Beautiful coating of snow on the taller peaks.

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I heard some day hikers say to each other “where is he going?” or “there is no trail that way!” as I took off. Some of last night’s snowfall was still hanging around at these high elevations and I enjoyed every bit of this alt route. Even the super sketchy scramble at the last saddle, next to Ice Lake, was pretty fun once I got past the crux. From James Peak I could barely see the skyline of Denver out on the horizon and it reminded me of when I could see the Manhattan skyline from the AT. The trail followed a new ridge for a few miles and I could see the town of Frazier to the West as well as the Winter Park ski resort. Daylight faded and the moon was bright enough that I was able to nighthike without a headlamp for a few miles until I found some good hammock trees. I also was within reach of the cell towers for the town below so I chatted with my fiancée, Sea Lion, for a long time before I fell asleep.

The elements got the better of this radio tower.

I can’t figure out what kind of flower this is, input welcome!

Looking back at Mount Bancroft and Parry Peak.

Day 98, 30.2 miles to Twin Creek (1949.4 overall)

I slept in and had a lazy morning. I also found a surprise croissant kicking around the bottom of my food bag! I continued on the trail for quite awhile, saw the remains of a tiny train bridge, and then got blasted by relentless wind after topping out over some switchbacks next to King Lake. I passed the Devil’s Thumb (which, at best, vaguely resembles a fat little thumb poking out of the ground) and then started a long 2300 foot descent next to Cabin Creek. It was a godsend to be in tree cover, out of the wind, and I began to debate if I preferred the coziness of hiking through forests or the wide expanses of open ridgelines. I never reached a conclusion.

Devil’s Thumb. See, it looks just like a thumb. Kind of. If you squint hard enough.

Don’t slip! Big drop down to Monarch Lake.

I cruised along for a bit more and then came to another massive drop down to Monarch Lake which was teeming with more day hikers. There was an old steam engine used to pull logs down the mountain before floating them in the lake. The trail circles Monarch Lake then splits off to go Lake Granby. I wondered what the deciding factor is to put “Lake” before or after the name. I was bummed to find out the Arapahoe Valley Ranch, home to “The Smallest Bar in Colorado” was closed for the season. So were most of the nearby campgrounds but that didn’t stop me from enjoying dinner at the Arapahoe Bay campground as I watched the sunset and then went for a skinnydip. The yellow aspens and other fall foliage was a site to behold during the golden hour sunlight and I kept hiking into the night. I found an amazing campsite with fire pit, benches, and hammock trees right next to Shiva Creek so I called that home for the night. Rocky Mountain National Park boundary was just ahead and they require bear canisters and permits so this would do just fine.

An old “steam donkey” engine. Back in the day they were commonly used to drag logs down off the mountainside.

Day 99, 19.4 miles to NOBO marker 1393.8 with a pit stop in Grand Lake, CO

I was surprised when I woke up to a layer of frost covering my sleeping quilt and then I quickly realized how absolutely freezing it was. I thought I was deep enough in the trees that the cold lake air would not reach me but I was dead wrong. My last canister of gas ran out as I boiled lots of water for both a tea and a hot chocolate to warm me up and get moving. Thankfully it was a town day. The trail wrapped around the lake and I could see an endless lines of fancy condos, lodges, and mansions on the other side. I passed a dead fox that was eaten right in the middle of the trail and it was pretty gnarly. Fresh bright red blood and no flies so I figured this happened last night. I crossed a beautiful arch bridge and was then officially in the town of Grand Lake. Some trail notes said the rec center is accommodating to hikers so I posted up there for a bit to buy my tickets home for Intermission #2 as well as charge up my electronics, sew up my shirt, socks, and gaiters, and take a tally of my food. I decided to skip Rocky Mountain NP because it would mean taking a Near-O today at only 7 miles, or blasting out another 22 miles. The 30-mile shortcut would also mean I could make it back to Texas in time to attend the City Limits Music Festival on Saturday. I made Sea Lion promise me that we would hike the RMNP section sometime soon. I then picked up my food drop from the Post Office, grabbed a few more snacks from the local over-priced grocery store, got some BBQ for lunch, and grabbed some supplies from the outfitters before getting back on trail.